Your lawn needs plenty of water to stay thick and healthy. Usually, Mother Nature supplies an adequate amount of moisture, but your help is required during certain times of the year. Generally, turf grass needs at least one inch of water every week during the growing season. If this amount of rainfall is not received, it's time to drag out the hose or turn on the irrigation system!
Turning on a sprinkler is usually easy, but measuring one inch of irrigation on your lawn can be tricky. To get a feel for how long to water, try placing a shallow dishpan in your lawn and turn on the sprinkler. Keep an eye on the depth of the water in the pan. Once you've watered an area with one inch of water you should move your sprinkler to the next area. Generally, you'll need to water each area for up to an hour before moving to the next area.
As a rule of thumb, your lawn will benefit most from less frequent, deep watering instead of daily shallow watering. Your root system will grow deeper and thicker when the water soaks down deep into the soil. One exception to this rule is for new seeding. If your lawn has been recently seeded, you'll want to provide frequent light watering to encourage seed germination without washing away the exposed grass seed.
Generally, most lawn care applications will benefit from deep watering on the day following the treatment. Feel free to call our office with any further questions!


Proper mowing is an essential part of a beautiful lawn. By following a few basic rules, your lawn will stay thick and healthy all year long.
First off, your lawn mower blades must be sharp in order to cut your grass properly. Dull blades will tear the grass tips resulting in a discolored lawn that is more susceptible to fungus and disease problems. It's best to have a professional mechanic sharpen your mower blades at least two or three times every year.
It's important to never remove more than 1/3 of the grass height with each mowing. Cutting more than that will put undesired stress on the grass plants, especially in hot and dry weather. This means that you may need to mow your lawn every few days when it's growing vigorously.
Also remember to cut your grass tall rather than short. Most species of grass should be maintained between 2.5" and 3.5". By mowing your grass at 3" high, you'll promote a healthier root system and discourage weed infestations.
One final note: your lawn will benefit the most by not bagging the grass clippings. By mulching the grass clippings on the lawn, you'll return vital nutrients back to the soil where it belongs. And don't worry about this contributing to excessive thatch. Thatch is actually a layer of grass roots and stems that grow on top of the soil. Annual core aeration will help to break down any excess thatch in your turf.


Many lawns require periodic seeding to fill in thin or bare areas of turf. These thin areas can result from drought stress, insect infestation, or even construction work in your lawn. Unfortunately, simply dropping seed on the ground is not usually sufficient. Seed to soil contact is very important for successful seeding.
Fall is the best time to seed your lawn, with spring being the second-best season for seeding. We recommend core aeration prior to seeding. This ensures that the seed comes in contact with the soil and actually falls into the newly formed holes created by aerating.
Remember, the success of new seeding depends greatly upon the amount of water and care it receives. Be sure to provide frequent, light irrigation until the seeds germinate and begin to grow. Then, provide less frequent, deep watering to help your new grass become well established.
If your lawn has large bare or thin areas, it may call for extensive renovation for best results. Our professional technicians can advise the best remedy for these situations after inspecting your lawn.

Lawn Disease

Most lawns will battle fungus and disease on a regular basis. These pests can move from yard to yard on shoes, mowers, or simply through the air. The best insurance against fungus and disease is to provide adequate fertilization and make a habit of aerating your lawn every year. A healthy lawn will more easily fend off troublesome diseases.
In some cases, your lawn may need a fungicide application. Our professional technicians can determine which fungus is invading your lawn and recommend ways to treat the problem.


The most damaging lawn pest of all is the white grub. Several species of beetles lay their eggs exclusively in turfgrass. When the eggs hatch, the larvae (grubs) feed upon the root system of your lawn. Unfortunately, grub activity is not visible until the damage is already done. As they destroy the root system below, the grass above will turn yellow and be easily pulled up in large chunks of dead sod. At this point, usually in late summer or early fall, the damage is already done.
The best insurance against grub damage is to use a preventative treatment of grub control. Our premium products only need to be applied once per year, in June or July, and will last for the rest of the year. We're so confident that our products are the best available, we fully guarantee all grub treatments. If your lawn is damaged or destroyed after we treat the grubs in June or July, we'll repair the damage at no charge. Call us today to schedule this very important application.


Most lawns can benefit from an annual application of lime. By balancing the pH-level of your soil, your grass will more easily benefit from your fertilization and weed control program. Lime can be applied at any time of the year. We can also provide soil tests if needed.


Core Aeration

Core aeration is the process of removing small plugs of soil from your lawn with a special aerating machine. In addition to reducing compaction, core aeration also allows water, oxygen, and nutrients to reach the root system of your lawn. This helps create a more dense turf with a higher stress tolerance for drought and disease. We recommend that all lawns are aerated at least once every year, preferably in the fall when the root system is growing vigorously. If your lawn has thin areas, you may consider aerating in both the spring and the fall for even better results.